June 18, 2008 0300 UTC
Position: 16 degrees 10 min. S, 146 degrees 49 min. W
We left Taou atoll this morning at 8:15 local time bound for Tahiti, a 220 mile sail. The wind is a brisk 15 to 20 knots and the seas about eight feet. The ride is a little rough. We are now under full main and staysail on a broad reach. A few hours ago the shackle holding up the big jib let go and it is too rough to go up the mast and fix it at present. Nevertheless, we are making good progress and expect to be in Tahiti during daylight on Thursday.
Pax Vobiscum
Nearly Home!
July 23, 2009
1500 Lcl
In the Strait of San Juan de Fuca
Her 11,000 mile tour of the Pacific nearly completed, Pax is back in her home waters and expects to dock at the Elliot Bay Marina in Seattle tomorrow morning. She comes home well used, but in the use for which she was designed. Her brightwork is peeling away from two years of tropical sun and salt spray; a cupboard drawer is missing; a mainsheet block is jury rigged; her main refrigeration is non-functional; she is leaking transmission fluid; her canvas is worn; her leather dried out; her portholes are seeping; and, her paint has faded. She will look beaten up when moored at the marina, especially in comparison with her dock mates who have stayed at home these last two years. But all her vital signs are strong; she remains a safe and sound little ship. She comes home having conquered the open ocean once more, and after a refit she will be ready to go at it again.
This is our last blog entry. It is dedicated to the sailors who joined Pax on this adventure since she left Elliot Bay almost two years ago. They are, in order of appearance with one exception: Chris Wronsky, Sandy Brown, Nancy Erley, Scott Wyatt, Julie Golding, Eulalie Sullivan, Gene Carlson, Elena Leonard, Eric Laschever, Chip Masarie, Joe Cabral, Wright Wataeoka, Bryan Batdorf, and of course, Pax's sine quo non, and mine as well, Sally Bagshaw.
B. Bagshaw, Captain
1500 Lcl
In the Strait of San Juan de Fuca
Her 11,000 mile tour of the Pacific nearly completed, Pax is back in her home waters and expects to dock at the Elliot Bay Marina in Seattle tomorrow morning. She comes home well used, but in the use for which she was designed. Her brightwork is peeling away from two years of tropical sun and salt spray; a cupboard drawer is missing; a mainsheet block is jury rigged; her main refrigeration is non-functional; she is leaking transmission fluid; her canvas is worn; her leather dried out; her portholes are seeping; and, her paint has faded. She will look beaten up when moored at the marina, especially in comparison with her dock mates who have stayed at home these last two years. But all her vital signs are strong; she remains a safe and sound little ship. She comes home having conquered the open ocean once more, and after a refit she will be ready to go at it again.
This is our last blog entry. It is dedicated to the sailors who joined Pax on this adventure since she left Elliot Bay almost two years ago. They are, in order of appearance with one exception: Chris Wronsky, Sandy Brown, Nancy Erley, Scott Wyatt, Julie Golding, Eulalie Sullivan, Gene Carlson, Elena Leonard, Eric Laschever, Chip Masarie, Joe Cabral, Wright Wataeoka, Bryan Batdorf, and of course, Pax's sine quo non, and mine as well, Sally Bagshaw.
B. Bagshaw, Captain
Tuesday, July 21, 2009
Pax at Sea
July 21, 2009 1500 Lcl
48 degrees 22 N, 126 degrees 59' W
We have now been 20 days at sea and we are in our final at sea day, now less than 100 miles WSW of Cape Flattery. We have had the windiest and roughest part of our journey this last 36 hours. The winds have been 20 to 25 knots and the seas have been up to eight feet. We have had lots of water on deck and the man on watch has been periodically hit with a few buckets full that come unexpectedly over the rail. And it has been cold. Below decks life has been difficult with everything not tied down and every person not adequately braced flying off to leeward when Pax rolls in the waves.
Just an hour ago the sun came out for the first time in 10 days, lifting everyone's spirits. But still, we are all looking forward to sighting land and walking again on level ground once again forecast .
Pax Vobiscum
July 21, 2009 1500 Lcl
48 degrees 22 N, 126 degrees 59' W
We have now been 20 days at sea and we are in our final at sea day, now less than 100 miles WSW of Cape Flattery. We have had the windiest and roughest part of our journey this last 36 hours. The winds have been 20 to 25 knots and the seas have been up to eight feet. We have had lots of water on deck and the man on watch has been periodically hit with a few buckets full that come unexpectedly over the rail. And it has been cold. Below decks life has been difficult with everything not tied down and every person not adequately braced flying off to leeward when Pax rolls in the waves.
Just an hour ago the sun came out for the first time in 10 days, lifting everyone's spirits. But still, we are all looking forward to sighting land and walking again on level ground once again forecast .
Pax Vobiscum
Monday, July 20, 2009
Pax at sea
July 20, 2009 1215 Lcl
46 degrees 56 N, 133 degrees 54 W
We have spent another day motoring with intermittent attempts at sailing when the wind came up enough to try it. Our gentle gusts are now coming from the north indicating that we are finally east of the high. We are hoping the wind will build enough later this afternoon to allow us to turn the engine off for good.
We are starting to plan our landfall. We are back to an area close enough to the coast to be on our paper charts and Joe has spent the last hour plotting our course. We have started to see bull kelp in the water, a sure sign that land is not too far off. And the last two nights we have been surrounded by small birds that are roughly the size and shape of swifts. They seem to really like our navigation lights. They circle and circle the boat and chirp at us all night long. The albatrosses are still with us as well. We all enjoy their graceful flight just inches above the swells.
Bryan baked corn bread this morning and is baking a loaf of wheat bread now. We still have fresh (un-refrigerated) apples, oranges, potatoes and eggs 18 days out of Honolulu. And the jams, jellies and mayonnaise remain fine even though none of these have yet been introduced to our tiny refrigerator. Cold storage is overrated (but necessary for the beer, of course).
P.S. 1630 lcl. The wind came up at 1430 and we are now beam reaching at 6 knots in a building northerly.
Pax Vobiscum
July 20, 2009 1215 Lcl
46 degrees 56 N, 133 degrees 54 W
We have spent another day motoring with intermittent attempts at sailing when the wind came up enough to try it. Our gentle gusts are now coming from the north indicating that we are finally east of the high. We are hoping the wind will build enough later this afternoon to allow us to turn the engine off for good.
We are starting to plan our landfall. We are back to an area close enough to the coast to be on our paper charts and Joe has spent the last hour plotting our course. We have started to see bull kelp in the water, a sure sign that land is not too far off. And the last two nights we have been surrounded by small birds that are roughly the size and shape of swifts. They seem to really like our navigation lights. They circle and circle the boat and chirp at us all night long. The albatrosses are still with us as well. We all enjoy their graceful flight just inches above the swells.
Bryan baked corn bread this morning and is baking a loaf of wheat bread now. We still have fresh (un-refrigerated) apples, oranges, potatoes and eggs 18 days out of Honolulu. And the jams, jellies and mayonnaise remain fine even though none of these have yet been introduced to our tiny refrigerator. Cold storage is overrated (but necessary for the beer, of course).
P.S. 1630 lcl. The wind came up at 1430 and we are now beam reaching at 6 knots in a building northerly.
Pax Vobiscum
Sunday, July 19, 2009
July 19, 2009 1630 Lcl
46 degrees 27' N, 136 degrees 10' W
It has been a day of motoring with occasional attempts at sailing in very light air. The seas flattened out enough for us to send Bryan up the mast to re-rig our spinnaker halyard. He did the job as if he were born to it - living in Yosemite must put this kind of thing into his genes.
Wright and Joe flew the spinnaker again just now, but there was not enough wind to keep it full. We are expecting a change in weather as we close with the coast, northwest wind 15 to 25 knots are forecast to greet us for the last few days into the Cape. A commensurate sea will build as well, so it could be a little rough.
Standing watch with the engine running and the autopilot on in flat seas can be pretty boring. Bryan's log entry from last night reads: "No stars, no boats, smooth sea, nothing on the radar. Drank tea to stay awake." About the only one of us not bored is me; I am worried all the time. Are the fuel filters clogging? That back pressure gauge doesn't seem to be working. Is the transmission fluid leak intensifying? Is all that transmission fluid being thrown out of the engine flammable? What is that new vibration? Is something coming unbolted in there?
I'll be relieved when we turn this mechanical contraption off and get sailing again.
Pax Vobiscum
46 degrees 27' N, 136 degrees 10' W
It has been a day of motoring with occasional attempts at sailing in very light air. The seas flattened out enough for us to send Bryan up the mast to re-rig our spinnaker halyard. He did the job as if he were born to it - living in Yosemite must put this kind of thing into his genes.
Wright and Joe flew the spinnaker again just now, but there was not enough wind to keep it full. We are expecting a change in weather as we close with the coast, northwest wind 15 to 25 knots are forecast to greet us for the last few days into the Cape. A commensurate sea will build as well, so it could be a little rough.
Standing watch with the engine running and the autopilot on in flat seas can be pretty boring. Bryan's log entry from last night reads: "No stars, no boats, smooth sea, nothing on the radar. Drank tea to stay awake." About the only one of us not bored is me; I am worried all the time. Are the fuel filters clogging? That back pressure gauge doesn't seem to be working. Is the transmission fluid leak intensifying? Is all that transmission fluid being thrown out of the engine flammable? What is that new vibration? Is something coming unbolted in there?
I'll be relieved when we turn this mechanical contraption off and get sailing again.
Pax Vobiscum
Saturday, July 18, 2009
July 18, 2009 1200 Lcl
45 degrees 37' N, 139 degrees 02' W
We are now motoring and have been for most of the morning. Last night we sailed in a finicky wind that finally collapsed on us this morning. Despite much planning and our best efforts, we have become enveloped in a northeastern lobe of the Pacific High that has formed around us in the last 24 hours. We are trying to get to north winds that should prevail to the east of the high. The good news is that with the lighter winds and occasional sunshine the temperatures have been warmer on deck and the man on watch again has company today. It was cold out there yesterday and especially last night, which made for a lonely watch.
We saw several more ships yesterday and last night, big ships delivering containers full of American air to the Orient. This part of the ocean is much more crowded than the South Pacific.
We all remain in good spirits, but this cruise is entering the "are we there yet" phase. We need something to liven things up. Not a big breakdown or a perfect storm, if you please. But some entertainment: Are the Koreans planning another missile launch, perhaps? Maybe if we came across some long lost wreckage of Emelia Erhart's Lockheed we would all perk up. Or perhaps we just have to wait until we sight land five or six days from now.
Pax Vobiscum
Friday, July 17, 2009
July 17, 2009 1230 Lcl
44 degrees 40' N, 141 degrees 02' W
The wind calmed down last night and our pace has slowed. The wind has also veered and we are presently headed north to keep the sails full. We are still experiencing a series of light squalls that bring mist and sometimes an increase in wind speed. Despite getting wet we like the squalls for their wind. Pax is now about 700 miles west-south-west of Cape Flattery.
Yesterday we finally located the source of our transmission fluid leak. It is coming out of the seal between the transmission and engine, but thankfully it is not going into the engine but instead dropping into the pan underneath where we can sponge it up. This leak should not impede our progress as we anticipated the problem and brought lots of extra transmission fluid.
We saw two more container ships today. Both were well off in the distance, but they are reminders that we are now crossing shipping lanes and must remain vigilant.
We also now have a pair of albatrosses periodically circling the boat, and yesterday Bryan caught two more albacore tuna. Every night brings more phosphorescence in the water and last night the remaining sliver of the old moon peaked out from between clouds around midnight.
Pax Vobiscum
44 degrees 40' N, 141 degrees 02' W
The wind calmed down last night and our pace has slowed. The wind has also veered and we are presently headed north to keep the sails full. We are still experiencing a series of light squalls that bring mist and sometimes an increase in wind speed. Despite getting wet we like the squalls for their wind. Pax is now about 700 miles west-south-west of Cape Flattery.
Yesterday we finally located the source of our transmission fluid leak. It is coming out of the seal between the transmission and engine, but thankfully it is not going into the engine but instead dropping into the pan underneath where we can sponge it up. This leak should not impede our progress as we anticipated the problem and brought lots of extra transmission fluid.
We saw two more container ships today. Both were well off in the distance, but they are reminders that we are now crossing shipping lanes and must remain vigilant.
We also now have a pair of albatrosses periodically circling the boat, and yesterday Bryan caught two more albacore tuna. Every night brings more phosphorescence in the water and last night the remaining sliver of the old moon peaked out from between clouds around midnight.
Pax Vobiscum
Thursday, July 16, 2009
July 16, 2009 1500 Lcl
43 degrees 36' N, 143 degrees 04' W
We continue to make excellent progress under gray skies being pushed by a chilly breeze from the northwest. We made 144 miles yesterday, about the best Pax has ever done and we will come close to that again today. If this wind holds we will be at Cape Flattery in another week. Everyone is watching the GPS count down the miles, now a little more than 800 to go to the Cape.
It has been a routine day, which is a good thing at sea in a small boat - no disasters. The seascape has taken on a certain sameness, grey above, and dark blue below all the way around an endless horizon. Those who do this single-handed must be the loneliest people on earth.
Pax Vobiscum
43 degrees 36' N, 143 degrees 04' W
We continue to make excellent progress under gray skies being pushed by a chilly breeze from the northwest. We made 144 miles yesterday, about the best Pax has ever done and we will come close to that again today. If this wind holds we will be at Cape Flattery in another week. Everyone is watching the GPS count down the miles, now a little more than 800 to go to the Cape.
It has been a routine day, which is a good thing at sea in a small boat - no disasters. The seascape has taken on a certain sameness, grey above, and dark blue below all the way around an endless horizon. Those who do this single-handed must be the loneliest people on earth.
Pax Vobiscum
Wednesday, July 15, 2009
Pax at sea
July 15, 2009 1530 lcl
42 degrees 26' N, 145 degrees 56' W
We are making great progress today. The wind is about 15 knots out of the west-north-west and we are reaching to the northeast pointed directly at Cape Flattery, which is now less than 1,000 miles away. We are making 6 knots today - very good speed for Pax. We have the seas on our port quarter and Pax has been playing surfer girl from time to time, her 28,000 pounds accelerating impressively down six foot wave faces. Sometimes she rolls sharply onto her starboard side as she ends the ride making restraints necessary on the port side bunks. I chose not to use the lee cloth last night and woke up once on top of the cooler at my bedside.
Our albatross continues to fly around the boat, its long wings are always just off the water, tips almost touching. We can sometimes see him pull a wing in as his wingtip just touches the water. We have a decent sea running today, making this contour flying all the more impressive.
We have some sun today interspersed with small squalls. It has been dry enough that the person on watch today sometimes has company. Back in the tropics we all on deck all the time except when sleeping or cooking or cleaning up. The last few days as it has become cold and rainy being on watch has become more lonely duty.
We just saw our second ship. This one was a fast moving Hanjin container ship steaming to the east, probably headed for San Francisco. We need to be vigilant now that we are crossing shipping lanes. It is an effort to continue to search around the horizon on a three hour watch, even though we have seen only two ships in 13 days at sea.
Pax Vobiscum
July 15, 2009 1530 lcl
42 degrees 26' N, 145 degrees 56' W
We are making great progress today. The wind is about 15 knots out of the west-north-west and we are reaching to the northeast pointed directly at Cape Flattery, which is now less than 1,000 miles away. We are making 6 knots today - very good speed for Pax. We have the seas on our port quarter and Pax has been playing surfer girl from time to time, her 28,000 pounds accelerating impressively down six foot wave faces. Sometimes she rolls sharply onto her starboard side as she ends the ride making restraints necessary on the port side bunks. I chose not to use the lee cloth last night and woke up once on top of the cooler at my bedside.
Our albatross continues to fly around the boat, its long wings are always just off the water, tips almost touching. We can sometimes see him pull a wing in as his wingtip just touches the water. We have a decent sea running today, making this contour flying all the more impressive.
We have some sun today interspersed with small squalls. It has been dry enough that the person on watch today sometimes has company. Back in the tropics we all on deck all the time except when sleeping or cooking or cleaning up. The last few days as it has become cold and rainy being on watch has become more lonely duty.
We just saw our second ship. This one was a fast moving Hanjin container ship steaming to the east, probably headed for San Francisco. We need to be vigilant now that we are crossing shipping lanes. It is an effort to continue to search around the horizon on a three hour watch, even though we have seen only two ships in 13 days at sea.
Pax Vobiscum
Tuesday, July 14, 2009
Bastille Day, 2009 1215 Lcl
40 degrees 46' N, 148 degrees 25' W
It has been a rainy night and rainy day as we follow a cold front northward towards its associated low pressure area. The wind has been good, 12 to 14 knots out of the WSW. We are trying to catch the wind associated with the low without catching too much of it or the accompanying seas. It is a balancing act, but we should be OK. NOAA predicts that the low is more lamb than lion and it is supposed to stay 300 miles to the north. But we are experiencing our first seas of any consequence, about 5 feet now, predicted to rise to six to eight feet as we get closer to the low. The quartering seas and wind are making steering a chore that are wind vane cannot handle, however. Tomorrow the low is off on a date with the Queen Charlotte Islands. We are hoping that the new high builds as predicted in the Central Pacific leaving us to close with the coast on the northwest winds that will form on the northeast quadrant of the high.
We are all doing our watches today in full northwest foul weather gear. Exchange the gloves for mittens and the baseball caps for woolen hats and we would be ready for winter in the Cascades. It sure does not look or feel like July here, 900 miles off the Oregon-California border.
Our only companion these last few days has been an albatross that continues to glide around our little boat. I am not counting Bryan's albacore on whom we dined last night. "Chicken of the sea" Bumble Bee called the albacore in its commercials. Does anyone else remember Charley the Tuna? I tried to forget his happy smile last night when eating Bryan's tasty meal.
Pax Vobiscum
40 degrees 46' N, 148 degrees 25' W
It has been a rainy night and rainy day as we follow a cold front northward towards its associated low pressure area. The wind has been good, 12 to 14 knots out of the WSW. We are trying to catch the wind associated with the low without catching too much of it or the accompanying seas. It is a balancing act, but we should be OK. NOAA predicts that the low is more lamb than lion and it is supposed to stay 300 miles to the north. But we are experiencing our first seas of any consequence, about 5 feet now, predicted to rise to six to eight feet as we get closer to the low. The quartering seas and wind are making steering a chore that are wind vane cannot handle, however. Tomorrow the low is off on a date with the Queen Charlotte Islands. We are hoping that the new high builds as predicted in the Central Pacific leaving us to close with the coast on the northwest winds that will form on the northeast quadrant of the high.
We are all doing our watches today in full northwest foul weather gear. Exchange the gloves for mittens and the baseball caps for woolen hats and we would be ready for winter in the Cascades. It sure does not look or feel like July here, 900 miles off the Oregon-California border.
Our only companion these last few days has been an albatross that continues to glide around our little boat. I am not counting Bryan's albacore on whom we dined last night. "Chicken of the sea" Bumble Bee called the albacore in its commercials. Does anyone else remember Charley the Tuna? I tried to forget his happy smile last night when eating Bryan's tasty meal.
Pax Vobiscum
Monday, July 13, 2009
July 13, 1600 Lcl
39 degrees 15'N, 149 degrees 36' W
We have been sailing all day today in a 10 knot northwesterly in almost flat seas, making 5 knots on the rhumb line course to Cape Flattery. It is a mostly sunny day after two days of gray clouds and occasional light rain, a pleasant change. It is noticeably colder today, however. The water temperature is down to 66 degrees and the wind carries the chill into the boat. The days of shorts and tee shirts are drawing to a close. The nights of full foul weather bibs and overalls have arrived.
The cold water means the end of the slaughter of the mahi mahi. Not to be daunted, it took Bryan about an hour of fishing this morning to land an eight pound albacore tuna. Apparently they do not come only in the can. We will see how fresh albacore tastes tonight.
We are approaching another staple of the northwest; a low pressure area which is moving eastward about 400 miles to the north of us. We are trying to get close enough to catch west winds but trying to stay far enough away to avoid stormy seas. The next several days will measure our success.
The 15 hours of motoring we did yesterday resulted in a loss of almost a quart of hydraulic fluid, an issue that has been of concern since before we left Honolulu. We have checked out all sources of the leak with no luck yet. I fear it may be winding up in the engine, although there is no direct evidence of that. We are monitoring the situation closely in an effort to avoid becoming a pure sail boat.
Pax Vobiscum
39 degrees 15'N, 149 degrees 36' W
We have been sailing all day today in a 10 knot northwesterly in almost flat seas, making 5 knots on the rhumb line course to Cape Flattery. It is a mostly sunny day after two days of gray clouds and occasional light rain, a pleasant change. It is noticeably colder today, however. The water temperature is down to 66 degrees and the wind carries the chill into the boat. The days of shorts and tee shirts are drawing to a close. The nights of full foul weather bibs and overalls have arrived.
The cold water means the end of the slaughter of the mahi mahi. Not to be daunted, it took Bryan about an hour of fishing this morning to land an eight pound albacore tuna. Apparently they do not come only in the can. We will see how fresh albacore tastes tonight.
We are approaching another staple of the northwest; a low pressure area which is moving eastward about 400 miles to the north of us. We are trying to get close enough to catch west winds but trying to stay far enough away to avoid stormy seas. The next several days will measure our success.
The 15 hours of motoring we did yesterday resulted in a loss of almost a quart of hydraulic fluid, an issue that has been of concern since before we left Honolulu. We have checked out all sources of the leak with no luck yet. I fear it may be winding up in the engine, although there is no direct evidence of that. We are monitoring the situation closely in an effort to avoid becoming a pure sail boat.
Pax Vobiscum
Sunday, July 12, 2009
37 degrees 42' N, 150 degrees 44' W
Our excitement last night was sighting our first ship since we were in the vicinity of the Hawaiian Islands. We were on nearly parallel but converging courses about two hours after sunset. The large ship was moving at about the same 5 knots that we were, making us think it was a mid-ocean fishing trawler. When it looked like we would get too close for comfort we called on the VHF radio and were answered by a gentleman with a Russian accent. Yes, he did see us. No he was not towing fishing gear, he was a Russian bulk carrier, apparently headed for Vladivostok or Petropovlosk given his course. We thanked him for the information and turned to pass astern.
Shortly after our encounter with the Russian it started to drizzle, and soon after that the wind died to almost nothing. For the first time in the last 15 months at sea I was cold on watch and I broke out the sleeping bag when turning in at midnight; it felt good to get my toes warm again. We attempted to sail in the dyeing wind but finally gave up and turned on the engine at 1:30 AM. It has been droning since then until just a few minutes ago and now we are attempting to sail in a very light southwesterly. Despite our best efforts to skirt the edge of the high pressure system a new high is forming on top of us robbing us of our planned-for wind. The forecast is for this high to move south and for a low to pass to our north, both of which should bring us wind tomorrow or the next day, or so we hope.
We are now 10 days at sea, just about half way between Hawaii and the Aleutians. We could just continue north, I've heard so much about Dutch Harbor but have never been there, and Bryan could catch a few Chinook for a change. Maybe not though, we are all starting to think about home.
Pax Vobiscum
Our excitement last night was sighting our first ship since we were in the vicinity of the Hawaiian Islands. We were on nearly parallel but converging courses about two hours after sunset. The large ship was moving at about the same 5 knots that we were, making us think it was a mid-ocean fishing trawler. When it looked like we would get too close for comfort we called on the VHF radio and were answered by a gentleman with a Russian accent. Yes, he did see us. No he was not towing fishing gear, he was a Russian bulk carrier, apparently headed for Vladivostok or Petropovlosk given his course. We thanked him for the information and turned to pass astern.
Shortly after our encounter with the Russian it started to drizzle, and soon after that the wind died to almost nothing. For the first time in the last 15 months at sea I was cold on watch and I broke out the sleeping bag when turning in at midnight; it felt good to get my toes warm again. We attempted to sail in the dyeing wind but finally gave up and turned on the engine at 1:30 AM. It has been droning since then until just a few minutes ago and now we are attempting to sail in a very light southwesterly. Despite our best efforts to skirt the edge of the high pressure system a new high is forming on top of us robbing us of our planned-for wind. The forecast is for this high to move south and for a low to pass to our north, both of which should bring us wind tomorrow or the next day, or so we hope.
We are now 10 days at sea, just about half way between Hawaii and the Aleutians. We could just continue north, I've heard so much about Dutch Harbor but have never been there, and Bryan could catch a few Chinook for a change. Maybe not though, we are all starting to think about home.
Pax Vobiscum
July 11, 2009
July 11, 1500 Lcl
36 degrees 26' N, 152 degrees 25' W
Right after posting yesterday's blog entry we had our first fire drill of the cruise when the spinnaker halyard parted dropping our big colorful sail into the water. It streamed back but fortunately did not get tangled in the prop or rudder. Something at the top of the mast that we thought we had fixed last year in Tahiti chafed through the line. Fixing for good will require a trip up the mast and, although Bryan is game to go, we will keep at deck level at present. There is a lot of motion at sea when one gets up 55 feet to the top of the mast. Within half an hour we had the spinnaker recovered and the big jib set out wing-on-wing on the spinnaker pole. Shortly thereafter the wind freshened and we averaged 5.5 knots with this sail combination all night.
About noon today we had our first rainy weather as a weak cold front passed through. We had reefed before it came and were prepared when the wind backed 110 degrees and freshened to 15 knots in the span of one minute. The front has now passed and we are close-hauled in 6 or 7 knots. We are not screaming along, but are still moving nicely.
Yesterday and today we sighted a black-footed albatross. According to lore we are now due for good luck. Although we hardly need it in the fishing arena; we caught yet another mahi mahi this morning. This time Joe set the line and reeled it in, and he insists it is the biggest yet, although it looks to the rest of us about average. Joe used el negro morte, the lure that loves to kill. The hard-working Brazillian loves to fish as well, but she swims only for Bryan.
We are now a little over 1400 miles from Cape Flattery. So far Pax has lived up to her name, this has been a fast passage.
Pax Vobiscum
36 degrees 26' N, 152 degrees 25' W
Right after posting yesterday's blog entry we had our first fire drill of the cruise when the spinnaker halyard parted dropping our big colorful sail into the water. It streamed back but fortunately did not get tangled in the prop or rudder. Something at the top of the mast that we thought we had fixed last year in Tahiti chafed through the line. Fixing for good will require a trip up the mast and, although Bryan is game to go, we will keep at deck level at present. There is a lot of motion at sea when one gets up 55 feet to the top of the mast. Within half an hour we had the spinnaker recovered and the big jib set out wing-on-wing on the spinnaker pole. Shortly thereafter the wind freshened and we averaged 5.5 knots with this sail combination all night.
About noon today we had our first rainy weather as a weak cold front passed through. We had reefed before it came and were prepared when the wind backed 110 degrees and freshened to 15 knots in the span of one minute. The front has now passed and we are close-hauled in 6 or 7 knots. We are not screaming along, but are still moving nicely.
Yesterday and today we sighted a black-footed albatross. According to lore we are now due for good luck. Although we hardly need it in the fishing arena; we caught yet another mahi mahi this morning. This time Joe set the line and reeled it in, and he insists it is the biggest yet, although it looks to the rest of us about average. Joe used el negro morte, the lure that loves to kill. The hard-working Brazillian loves to fish as well, but she swims only for Bryan.
We are now a little over 1400 miles from Cape Flattery. So far Pax has lived up to her name, this has been a fast passage.
Pax Vobiscum
Friday, July 10, 2009
35 degrees 20' N, 155 degrees 0' W
The wind came up to 10 - 12 knots last night around 10 PM and we have been going 5 to 7 knots since under spinnaker and full mainsail. The sailing does not get any better than what we have right now -- sunny skies, shirt sleeve temperatures, fair winds and a full suit of sails.
Last night we thought we sighted our first ship in a week as bright lights bobbed up between the wave crests on the eastern horizon. The ship was well lit, just as cruise ships always are. But it only took a minute for us to realize that our ship was the rising moon, now just two days past full and coming up around 9 PM. Clouds on the horizon usually hid its first moon-rays, but not last night. A few hours later, I had another rare treat on my watch - a moon-bow, a rainbow illuminated by the moon rather than the sun. The moonbeams were too weak to generate visible colors, but strong enough to paint a pale white arc in front of a distant rain cloud. With the moon starting now to rise after sunset we are getting out first glimpses of the early evening stars. Last night all of Scorpio was in view, and we could just make out Cassiopeia. As the moon rises later and later in the coming days we will see more and more stars.
We have been eating like kings, and Joe has been the star cook this last 24 hours. Delicious fish tacos last night - fresh mahi mahi in a medley of fresh fruits and vegetables that included delicious pineapple slices. This morning Joe stayed up after his 3 AM to 6 AM shift to make us all crepes. Pax has become a gourmet restaurant.
We are not seeing a tremendous amount of life in this part of the ocean. A few flying fish, a few shearwaters and a few petrels, and, of course, whenever Bryan throws a line over a mahi mahi. But no fishing today, the consensus is to eat linguica pizza tonight: yes, you can have too much of a good thing.
Pax Vobiscum
Thursday, July 9, 2009
July 9, 2009 1400 Lcl
34 degrees 11' N, 156 degrees 44' W
Another light wind day as we attempt to skirt the western edge of the Pacific High. We are now one week into our cruise and we have had four notable events in the last few hours.
1. We are now flying our colorful but infrequently used spinnaker. Ace foredeck-man and all-round downwind sailing guru Wright directed the launching of our symmetrical kite this morning and we are now moving well in very light air. Without it up we would have resorted to the diesel today. This is much more pleasant, more environmentally friendly and nearly as fast. And of course it is much in tune with our character -- we are a sailboat after all.
2. Joe cleaned the head today!! Although we were beginning to doubt it, the bowl is still white, the floor is not naturally hairy and sticky, and that smell was not coming from the boots we store in the shower. We are all deeply grateful for Joe's effort. We are studying whether to make this a weekly routine.
3. Not to be outdone, Bryan took brush and dust-pan in hand and found an amazing collection of items on the floors and other flat spots. All are now over the side. Thank you Bryan!
4. On a more ominous note, one unnamed crewmember did his laundry today, using valuable fresh water in the process. During previous cruises with women onboard this sort of disturbing behavior seemed to happen every few days or so, but until now this all male cruise has been blissfully free of it. (To be more gender-balanced and politically correct, a particularly vicious form of this unfortunate disease seems to inflict male members of the cloth, at least if they are Methodists). The water and power czar is concerned that this may develop into a trend but is cautiously optimist; as of yet no other member of the crew has become infected.
No longer in the notable category, but Bryan caught yet another mahi mahi today. The hard-working Brazilian once again did the job. We had so much fresh fish in the fridge that this 10 pounder was let go.
Pax Vobiscum
34 degrees 11' N, 156 degrees 44' W
Another light wind day as we attempt to skirt the western edge of the Pacific High. We are now one week into our cruise and we have had four notable events in the last few hours.
1. We are now flying our colorful but infrequently used spinnaker. Ace foredeck-man and all-round downwind sailing guru Wright directed the launching of our symmetrical kite this morning and we are now moving well in very light air. Without it up we would have resorted to the diesel today. This is much more pleasant, more environmentally friendly and nearly as fast. And of course it is much in tune with our character -- we are a sailboat after all.
2. Joe cleaned the head today!! Although we were beginning to doubt it, the bowl is still white, the floor is not naturally hairy and sticky, and that smell was not coming from the boots we store in the shower. We are all deeply grateful for Joe's effort. We are studying whether to make this a weekly routine.
3. Not to be outdone, Bryan took brush and dust-pan in hand and found an amazing collection of items on the floors and other flat spots. All are now over the side. Thank you Bryan!
4. On a more ominous note, one unnamed crewmember did his laundry today, using valuable fresh water in the process. During previous cruises with women onboard this sort of disturbing behavior seemed to happen every few days or so, but until now this all male cruise has been blissfully free of it. (To be more gender-balanced and politically correct, a particularly vicious form of this unfortunate disease seems to inflict male members of the cloth, at least if they are Methodists). The water and power czar is concerned that this may develop into a trend but is cautiously optimist; as of yet no other member of the crew has become infected.
No longer in the notable category, but Bryan caught yet another mahi mahi today. The hard-working Brazilian once again did the job. We had so much fresh fish in the fridge that this 10 pounder was let go.
Pax Vobiscum
Wednesday, July 8, 2009
July 8, 2009 1500 Lcl
32 degrees 46' N, 157 degrees 35' W
It has been a very light and slow sailing day today. The barometric pressure is up to 1024 mb and we are too close to the main high pressure area for much wind. We are still ghosting along under sail though, and trying to avoid resorting to the engine except to charge batteries. The weather remains generally sunny although we skirted several squall lines last night.
Bryan has done it again, this time catching the biggest mahi mahi yet, about 12 pounds yielding 6 to 8 pounds of meat. The lure was the now twice successful el negro morte. These fish are a spectacle as they die, turning rapidly from yellowish-green, to blue, to deep purple and back to dark green. And again as before he caught a second mahi on the handline at almost the same time, using the reliable and somewhat battered Brazilian squid. Yesterday the Brazilian hooked something really big that got off the hook as it was pulled to the boat. The Brazilian survived but it lost part of its fancy mardi gras shirt. We let the second mahi go today because we have all the fish we can eat. And eat we have been doing: wonderful fish tacos last night, a plate of fruit and cheeses for lunch today, and tonight -- fish du jour, of course.
Two flying fish were on deck this morning. The flying fish up here are a different species than those we encountered on all our travels south of Hawaii. They are much smaller, only 2-3 inches long, and unlike their southern cousins they have independent horizontal stabilizers. These should make sudden climbs easier for these little guys, but they do not seem to be able to avoid the boat at night any easier than the southern belles.
It was a full moon last night -- very easy to work on deck but not much chance to see stars. Tonight the moon starts its monthly journey towards darkness and soon the stars will fill the sky.
Six days out and it has been an excellent cruise so far, but although it is coming closer, Seattle feels far, far away.
Pax Vobiscum.
32 degrees 46' N, 157 degrees 35' W
It has been a very light and slow sailing day today. The barometric pressure is up to 1024 mb and we are too close to the main high pressure area for much wind. We are still ghosting along under sail though, and trying to avoid resorting to the engine except to charge batteries. The weather remains generally sunny although we skirted several squall lines last night.
Bryan has done it again, this time catching the biggest mahi mahi yet, about 12 pounds yielding 6 to 8 pounds of meat. The lure was the now twice successful el negro morte. These fish are a spectacle as they die, turning rapidly from yellowish-green, to blue, to deep purple and back to dark green. And again as before he caught a second mahi on the handline at almost the same time, using the reliable and somewhat battered Brazilian squid. Yesterday the Brazilian hooked something really big that got off the hook as it was pulled to the boat. The Brazilian survived but it lost part of its fancy mardi gras shirt. We let the second mahi go today because we have all the fish we can eat. And eat we have been doing: wonderful fish tacos last night, a plate of fruit and cheeses for lunch today, and tonight -- fish du jour, of course.
Two flying fish were on deck this morning. The flying fish up here are a different species than those we encountered on all our travels south of Hawaii. They are much smaller, only 2-3 inches long, and unlike their southern cousins they have independent horizontal stabilizers. These should make sudden climbs easier for these little guys, but they do not seem to be able to avoid the boat at night any easier than the southern belles.
It was a full moon last night -- very easy to work on deck but not much chance to see stars. Tonight the moon starts its monthly journey towards darkness and soon the stars will fill the sky.
Six days out and it has been an excellent cruise so far, but although it is coming closer, Seattle feels far, far away.
Pax Vobiscum.
Tuesday, July 7, 2009
July 7, 2009 1415 Lcl
30 degrees 50' N, 158 degrees, 21' W
It remains sunny beautiful weather. We have had 8 - 12 knot winds the last twenty four hours and have been reaching northward at an average of almost 6 knots. We are starting to plan our turn east and are looking carefully at each day's weather faxes. With the barometer rising, we know we are nearing the high pressure that we are trying to sail around. The latest forecast has three separate highs on it however, greatly complicating our task.
Yesterday before he departed for more southerly climates our resident boobie treated us to a display of superb flying. From his perch on our bowsprit he spotted a flying fish take off. Our boobie launched, caught up with and grabbed the flying fish before it re-entered the water - it was truly impressive.
Bryan just reeled in another mahi mahi. This one was smaller than the rest - it will be a single meal deal. The successful lure today was el negro morte, and it proved as deadly as its name.
We have just started to pick up a swell out of the northeast and with boat speed at 6 knots we are starting to get some motion below -- nothing that this now experienced crew cannot handle, however.
Pax Vobiscum
30 degrees 50' N, 158 degrees, 21' W
It remains sunny beautiful weather. We have had 8 - 12 knot winds the last twenty four hours and have been reaching northward at an average of almost 6 knots. We are starting to plan our turn east and are looking carefully at each day's weather faxes. With the barometer rising, we know we are nearing the high pressure that we are trying to sail around. The latest forecast has three separate highs on it however, greatly complicating our task.
Yesterday before he departed for more southerly climates our resident boobie treated us to a display of superb flying. From his perch on our bowsprit he spotted a flying fish take off. Our boobie launched, caught up with and grabbed the flying fish before it re-entered the water - it was truly impressive.
Bryan just reeled in another mahi mahi. This one was smaller than the rest - it will be a single meal deal. The successful lure today was el negro morte, and it proved as deadly as its name.
We have just started to pick up a swell out of the northeast and with boat speed at 6 knots we are starting to get some motion below -- nothing that this now experienced crew cannot handle, however.
Pax Vobiscum
Monday, July 6, 2009 1545 Lcl
28 degrees 47' N, 158 degrees 42'W
We are now sailing under a nice easterly breeze after a very slow overnight and morning sail. We had a long squall line that seemed to steal the wind for many hours at a time without providing much rain or much excitement. We are hoping the current breeze will stay with us for awhile. For the time being we are continuing on a course of due north, and planning to make our turn to the east around 40 north.
Bryan had a hard hit this morning that snapped his line, causing him to lose the prize Nigerian squid with which he caught his first mahi mahi. Shortly after it snapped we saw why as a large marlin jumped out of the water astern. We all hope that the lure works its way loose. Bryan is back at it with the also successful Brazilian squid still on the handline and the Nigerian replaced with el negro morte, a lure for which Bryan has high hopes. Bryan also successfully shot the sun at noon yesterday coming tolerably close to our actual latitude. He is earning his mariner stripes.
Joe and Wright had the excitement at 6 AM when a pod of 6 -12 or 30 dolphins (depending on who you talk to) joined Pax for an early morning swim and stayed with us for 15 minutes or so, doing the general dolphin display at the bow. Pictures will be available when we reach shore. In all the excitement our one resident boobie abandoned his bow perch, leaving only a fragrant white carpet behind to mark his stay.
The night sky is dominated by the nearly full moon, although Jupiter is also brilliant after 10 PM and Venus is with Joe in his early morning watch. It has been so bright that the Big Dipper and little else are recognizable.
Pax Vobiscum
Sunday, July 5, 2009
July 5, 2009 1500
27 degrees 7' N, 158 degrees, 30' W
Well it happened, and in a big way. At 4 PM yesterday a mahi mahi hit the lure on Bryan's pole. As he was reeling it in a second mahi mahi hit the hand line. By 5 PM Bryan, with the able assistance of Joe and Wright, had landed the two 10 pounders. (The captain was doing his radio work so he was suitably distracted from the slaughter.) Bryan somehow managed to butcher the two fish without making a mess in the cockpit and last night we had very fresh blackened mahi mahi cooked by Bryan. At noon today we had mahi mahi poisson cru prepared by Joe. Both were delicious. Mahi mahi pasta alfredo is on the menu for tonight.
One boobie is still with us even though we are now 300 miles north of where he first joined us. We have added a new duty to our routine - Joe had guano clean-up duty today. Side note to Lal - the head was never this bad, these birds have no sense of good sanitary practices. I'm giving them that lecture you gave Sandy and me if they do not shape up by tomorrow.
We continue to make good if not great progress in light winds and almost nonexistent seas. The wind dies out once or twice a day but so far it has always come back within a half hour or so. All boat systems continue to work well, knock on wood. On the 4th of July Joe saw a spectacular shooting star. After much discussion we have concluded it was not a Korean missile.
Pax Vobiscum
27 degrees 7' N, 158 degrees, 30' W
Well it happened, and in a big way. At 4 PM yesterday a mahi mahi hit the lure on Bryan's pole. As he was reeling it in a second mahi mahi hit the hand line. By 5 PM Bryan, with the able assistance of Joe and Wright, had landed the two 10 pounders. (The captain was doing his radio work so he was suitably distracted from the slaughter.) Bryan somehow managed to butcher the two fish without making a mess in the cockpit and last night we had very fresh blackened mahi mahi cooked by Bryan. At noon today we had mahi mahi poisson cru prepared by Joe. Both were delicious. Mahi mahi pasta alfredo is on the menu for tonight.
One boobie is still with us even though we are now 300 miles north of where he first joined us. We have added a new duty to our routine - Joe had guano clean-up duty today. Side note to Lal - the head was never this bad, these birds have no sense of good sanitary practices. I'm giving them that lecture you gave Sandy and me if they do not shape up by tomorrow.
We continue to make good if not great progress in light winds and almost nonexistent seas. The wind dies out once or twice a day but so far it has always come back within a half hour or so. All boat systems continue to work well, knock on wood. On the 4th of July Joe saw a spectacular shooting star. After much discussion we have concluded it was not a Korean missile.
Pax Vobiscum
Fourth of July at Sea!
July 4, 2009, 1500 lcl
25 degrees 11 ' N, 158 degrees 33' W
Another Fourth of July away from the U.S. No fireworks or grilled hot dogs for us today.
Lighter conditions than yesterday but still a very pleasant sail, although we caught the edge of a squall line this morning. The winds briefly touched 30 knots and we had a few drops of rain - nothing too serious. Now we have 10-15 knots and are reaching at about 5 knots to the north in almost flat seas. The days remains warm, although we now need to wear light coats at night. Only 250 miles north of Hawaii and we can start to feel a hint of the Northern Ocean.
Last night after dinner one, then two, then eventually six boobies landed on our bow pulpit. They spent the night with us and left to go fishing about 8:30 this morning. Two are now back as I write this, even though we are 120 miles north of where they first landed on us. Perhaps they are planning on colonizing Seattle and looking for a cheap ride, we shall see.
We had the tiniest of flying fish on deck this morning. It looked like a baby whose first flight went badly wrong. Bryan continues to trail two lines from dawn to dusk. He had one hard hit at about 6 AM this morning, but once again the prey escaped before being reeled in. Last night Bryan went forward to discuss fishing with the boobies in hope of picking up a few pointers from the real pros, but they were more interested in protecting their new turf than in helping a new fisherman make it in the world. Bryan is persistent though, and I continue to think it is just a matter of time until we have to deal with the mess of having a substantial fish on board. Then it will be the boobies who come a begging.
Pax Vobiscum
25 degrees 11 ' N, 158 degrees 33' W
Another Fourth of July away from the U.S. No fireworks or grilled hot dogs for us today.
Lighter conditions than yesterday but still a very pleasant sail, although we caught the edge of a squall line this morning. The winds briefly touched 30 knots and we had a few drops of rain - nothing too serious. Now we have 10-15 knots and are reaching at about 5 knots to the north in almost flat seas. The days remains warm, although we now need to wear light coats at night. Only 250 miles north of Hawaii and we can start to feel a hint of the Northern Ocean.
Last night after dinner one, then two, then eventually six boobies landed on our bow pulpit. They spent the night with us and left to go fishing about 8:30 this morning. Two are now back as I write this, even though we are 120 miles north of where they first landed on us. Perhaps they are planning on colonizing Seattle and looking for a cheap ride, we shall see.
We had the tiniest of flying fish on deck this morning. It looked like a baby whose first flight went badly wrong. Bryan continues to trail two lines from dawn to dusk. He had one hard hit at about 6 AM this morning, but once again the prey escaped before being reeled in. Last night Bryan went forward to discuss fishing with the boobies in hope of picking up a few pointers from the real pros, but they were more interested in protecting their new turf than in helping a new fisherman make it in the world. Bryan is persistent though, and I continue to think it is just a matter of time until we have to deal with the mess of having a substantial fish on board. Then it will be the boobies who come a begging.
Pax Vobiscum
Friday, July 3, 2009
July 3, 1500 Local
22 degrees 55 minutes N, 158 degrees 23 minutes W
We are sailing today in a very pleasant 15 to 20 knot easterly trade wind. Our course is to the north putting us on a beam reach. During the daylight hours today we have consistently made 6 to 7 knots under double-reefed main, staysail and reefed jib. Last night the wind was lighter, and we were forced to motor part of the time. We were visited at about 10:15 PM by a slow-moving pod of dolphins. O'ahu is now well below the horizon, Cape Flattery will be our next land fall.
Good news today on the mechanical front. Our rebuilt watermaker is producing water that easily meets all drinking standards - only 220 ppm salt. And, after running the engine a total of 4 hours yesterday there are no signs of a transmission fluid leak we have been troubleshooting this last week. Finally, we are loud and clear on the seafarer's net - the radio works!
Bryan is filling the shoes of the Reverend Sandy Brown as vessel fishmaster. We are now trailing two lines and have had one bite, but thankfully no catches yet. I fear that this happy trend will not continue and any day now our cockpit will be full of fish guts, scales and the other unpleasant droppings of the successful hunter.
Pax Vobiscum
22 degrees 55 minutes N, 158 degrees 23 minutes W
We are sailing today in a very pleasant 15 to 20 knot easterly trade wind. Our course is to the north putting us on a beam reach. During the daylight hours today we have consistently made 6 to 7 knots under double-reefed main, staysail and reefed jib. Last night the wind was lighter, and we were forced to motor part of the time. We were visited at about 10:15 PM by a slow-moving pod of dolphins. O'ahu is now well below the horizon, Cape Flattery will be our next land fall.
Good news today on the mechanical front. Our rebuilt watermaker is producing water that easily meets all drinking standards - only 220 ppm salt. And, after running the engine a total of 4 hours yesterday there are no signs of a transmission fluid leak we have been troubleshooting this last week. Finally, we are loud and clear on the seafarer's net - the radio works!
Bryan is filling the shoes of the Reverend Sandy Brown as vessel fishmaster. We are now trailing two lines and have had one bite, but thankfully no catches yet. I fear that this happy trend will not continue and any day now our cockpit will be full of fish guts, scales and the other unpleasant droppings of the successful hunter.
Pax Vobiscum
7/2/09, 5 PM Off Barber's Point, O'ahu
Pax set sail for home at 1 PM this afternoon in 15 knot trade winds that have now died to nothing, so we are motoring. We have a new crew of Joe, Wright and Bryan joining the same old Captain. We have spent the last 10 days getting the boat ready and are all glad to be finally at sea. Despite the light wind now we are anticipating good trade wind breezes for the next few days. We have already sighted many flying fish. Bryan is hoping for a few on deck in the morning and claims that he will have them for breakfast. It remains to be seen whether he will dine alone.
Saturday, May 2, 2009
20 degrees 23' N, 157 degrees 18' W
We now have only 63 miles to go. The island of Maui is clearly visible about 20 miles to windward and we are ghosting along at 3 knots in a very light easterly wind. We never did see the Big Island, it remains cloaked in a volcanic haze. The wind died completely on us yesterday and we motored through the night. An hour ago we witnessed a small airshow as a couple Navy fighters did mock combat over our heads.
We are all relaxed and looking forward to our landfall tomorrow morning.
Pax Vobiscum
We now have only 63 miles to go. The island of Maui is clearly visible about 20 miles to windward and we are ghosting along at 3 knots in a very light easterly wind. We never did see the Big Island, it remains cloaked in a volcanic haze. The wind died completely on us yesterday and we motored through the night. An hour ago we witnessed a small airshow as a couple Navy fighters did mock combat over our heads.
We are all relaxed and looking forward to our landfall tomorrow morning.
Pax Vobiscum
Friday, May 1, 2009
18 degrees 58' N, 156 degrees 20'; W
Last night we had plenty of wind and lots of closely spaced waves. None of us got much sleep. But today we have made up for the lost sleep and about 4 PM the wind deserted us completely. We are now motoring, about 165 miles from Honolulu and now hoping for wind.
Chip made pizza for dinner tonight - quite an accomplishment given the limitations of out galley - and it was delicious. And today is Chip and Kathy's 27th anniversary - he spent it cooking for us, thank you Chip, and thank you Kathy for loaning him to us. Only one more meal at sea, we are still projecting a Sunday arrival in port.
We are now 40 miles to leeward of the Big Island but it is not in sight. It has been a very hazy day, looks to us like the haze could be volcanic ash.
We have just passed through an area of many jumping fish. They look like juvenile tuna, and they jump straight up out of the water. Thankfully the fisherwomen among us are keeping their lures dry.
Pax Vobiscum
Last night we had plenty of wind and lots of closely spaced waves. None of us got much sleep. But today we have made up for the lost sleep and about 4 PM the wind deserted us completely. We are now motoring, about 165 miles from Honolulu and now hoping for wind.
Chip made pizza for dinner tonight - quite an accomplishment given the limitations of out galley - and it was delicious. And today is Chip and Kathy's 27th anniversary - he spent it cooking for us, thank you Chip, and thank you Kathy for loaning him to us. Only one more meal at sea, we are still projecting a Sunday arrival in port.
We are now 40 miles to leeward of the Big Island but it is not in sight. It has been a very hazy day, looks to us like the haze could be volcanic ash.
We have just passed through an area of many jumping fish. They look like juvenile tuna, and they jump straight up out of the water. Thankfully the fisherwomen among us are keeping their lures dry.
Pax Vobiscum
Thursday, April 30, 2009
17 degrees 4' N, 155 degrees 15' W
Another fine sailing day. The wind piped up mid-day and we have been sailing at 6.5 to 7 knots since. It is now nearly sunset. The half-moon is plainly visible overhead. Last night the Milky Way was especially prominent on a very clear night. Scorpio and Sagittarius were out and Venus and Jupiter had their now familiar early morning brilliance. We now have less than 300 miles to go before reaching port.
We expect to sight the Big Island at first light. We will pass about 40 miles south of it during the day tomorrow, but its 14,000 foot volcano should be readily visible - if the weather cooperates.
Today we had a booby for company for a while and Lal has identified two Tropicbirds flying about from time to time. We still see schools of flying fish leaping off the waves, but no dolphins for some time now. But last night we saw our first airplane in ten days. Civilization is coming closer.
Pax Vobiscum
Another fine sailing day. The wind piped up mid-day and we have been sailing at 6.5 to 7 knots since. It is now nearly sunset. The half-moon is plainly visible overhead. Last night the Milky Way was especially prominent on a very clear night. Scorpio and Sagittarius were out and Venus and Jupiter had their now familiar early morning brilliance. We now have less than 300 miles to go before reaching port.
We expect to sight the Big Island at first light. We will pass about 40 miles south of it during the day tomorrow, but its 14,000 foot volcano should be readily visible - if the weather cooperates.
Today we had a booby for company for a while and Lal has identified two Tropicbirds flying about from time to time. We still see schools of flying fish leaping off the waves, but no dolphins for some time now. But last night we saw our first airplane in ten days. Civilization is coming closer.
Pax Vobiscum
Wednesday, April 29, 2009
15 degrees 2' N. 154 degrees 22' W
We have had a very pleasant 24 hours. Both wind and sea have been moderate, we have all been able to sleep during our sleep times and we have had time to read and write during our waking times. We have plenty of water (because no one loves drinking the algae water) and we continue to be well-fed. Honolulu is just over 400 miles away and we are heading that way at 5 knots under easy sail. Life is good.
This day has we have seen little wildlife. Lal's Arctic tern came back, but no other birds and no dolphins. We did not even have any flying fish carcasses on deck this morning, although we have seen many flying over the waves today. It is now sunset and we are hoping for a clear night full of stars. At 4 AM lst night Venus was so bright that it left a line of light on the water and blocked the nearby stars. The moon is now in the evening sky and is slowly marching across the sky. It was full when we launched 3 weeks ago. If all continues to go well. we will be secure in our Hawaiian berth before it is full again.
Pax Vobiscum
We have had a very pleasant 24 hours. Both wind and sea have been moderate, we have all been able to sleep during our sleep times and we have had time to read and write during our waking times. We have plenty of water (because no one loves drinking the algae water) and we continue to be well-fed. Honolulu is just over 400 miles away and we are heading that way at 5 knots under easy sail. Life is good.
This day has we have seen little wildlife. Lal's Arctic tern came back, but no other birds and no dolphins. We did not even have any flying fish carcasses on deck this morning, although we have seen many flying over the waves today. It is now sunset and we are hoping for a clear night full of stars. At 4 AM lst night Venus was so bright that it left a line of light on the water and blocked the nearby stars. The moon is now in the evening sky and is slowly marching across the sky. It was full when we launched 3 weeks ago. If all continues to go well. we will be secure in our Hawaiian berth before it is full again.
Pax Vobiscum
Tuesday, April 28, 2009
Pax at Sea
13 degrees 22' N, 153 degrees 16' W
We have had a delightful day sailing. Last night we had no storms and today we had moderate winds and sunshine. We have made good progress and are all in good spirits. Tonight, as every night but one on this trip, we gaze out on an unbroken horizon - blue water and blue sky surround us and nothing else comes into view but the occasional deep sea bird or flying fish. It is big out here.
Tonight Chip made us a very nice pasta with mushrooms and chicken (out of the can from Costco). He is a wizard with the limitations imposed by now being at sea more than two weeks. Ginger root, onions and lime are now all we have left that is fresh, but the meals remain excellent.
This morning as every recent morning we had flying fish on board, and Lal has identified several Arctic Terns, amazing birds that migrate from one polar region to the other. Last evening we observed several pods of dolphins heading towards an area covered with birds, apparently all pursuing a large school of small fish that the plate du jour for every predator in the region.
We are now just over 500 miles from Hawaii and we are starting to think about taking showers, of drinks with ice, and of using a restroom without having to brace against the door to keep from falling off - life's little pleasures.
Pax Vobiscum
13 degrees 22' N, 153 degrees 16' W
We have had a delightful day sailing. Last night we had no storms and today we had moderate winds and sunshine. We have made good progress and are all in good spirits. Tonight, as every night but one on this trip, we gaze out on an unbroken horizon - blue water and blue sky surround us and nothing else comes into view but the occasional deep sea bird or flying fish. It is big out here.
Tonight Chip made us a very nice pasta with mushrooms and chicken (out of the can from Costco). He is a wizard with the limitations imposed by now being at sea more than two weeks. Ginger root, onions and lime are now all we have left that is fresh, but the meals remain excellent.
This morning as every recent morning we had flying fish on board, and Lal has identified several Arctic Terns, amazing birds that migrate from one polar region to the other. Last evening we observed several pods of dolphins heading towards an area covered with birds, apparently all pursuing a large school of small fish that the plate du jour for every predator in the region.
We are now just over 500 miles from Hawaii and we are starting to think about taking showers, of drinks with ice, and of using a restroom without having to brace against the door to keep from falling off - life's little pleasures.
Pax Vobiscum
Monday, April 27, 2009
11 degrees 33' N, 152 degrees 15 W
We had a very squally night last night. Storm after storm, lots of wind and lots of rain early, especially on Lal's early night watch. And we still have a leaky deck drain, so we have some water inside. It is hard to keep anything dry.
We had a lot of lightning last night and as a precaution we are now rigged for a potential strike. We have clamped jumper cables to the shrouds and dropped the ends in the water and one of our portable GPS receivers is in the microwave, we are hopeful that it will be shielded from the massive electromagnetic pulse generated by a lightning strike. We have a sextant, but we would prefer not to have to rely upon it to find Hawaii.
We have been under reduced sail all day as the wind continues to be strong. A double reefed main and a staysail is all we are showing and we are still doing 6 knots. The seas have been building and are around 8 feet, not too much, but enough that we notice. About three times every hour we get just the wrong combination of waves and we get 10 or 20 gallons in the cockpit. An hour or two ago Chip was inundated. It is wet, wet, wet.
At this pace we have 5.5 more days to Honolulu. We are anxious for the quit still joy of a peaceful anchorage.
Pax Vobiscum
We had a very squally night last night. Storm after storm, lots of wind and lots of rain early, especially on Lal's early night watch. And we still have a leaky deck drain, so we have some water inside. It is hard to keep anything dry.
We had a lot of lightning last night and as a precaution we are now rigged for a potential strike. We have clamped jumper cables to the shrouds and dropped the ends in the water and one of our portable GPS receivers is in the microwave, we are hopeful that it will be shielded from the massive electromagnetic pulse generated by a lightning strike. We have a sextant, but we would prefer not to have to rely upon it to find Hawaii.
We have been under reduced sail all day as the wind continues to be strong. A double reefed main and a staysail is all we are showing and we are still doing 6 knots. The seas have been building and are around 8 feet, not too much, but enough that we notice. About three times every hour we get just the wrong combination of waves and we get 10 or 20 gallons in the cockpit. An hour or two ago Chip was inundated. It is wet, wet, wet.
At this pace we have 5.5 more days to Honolulu. We are anxious for the quit still joy of a peaceful anchorage.
Pax Vobiscum
Sunday, April 26, 2009
Pax at sea
09 degrees 43' N, 150 degrees 53' W
Today's blog entry is a day in the life at sea as seen by Chip.
0000 hour--one hour into my night watch. Writing in my journal, spacing out looking at the bio luminescence and the stars. Thinking, dang I am sleepy and I have 2 more hours.
0200 hour--relieved from watch by Brad. Write current coordinates in log book--which I take off the GPS. Move my pillow and sheets to the aft cabin and make my bed for the first time in a 24 hour period. I settle into the second half of my night's sleep.
0630-0730 hour--wake up. Strip my aft bunk and stow my pillow and sheet. Come up the companionway and chat with Lal who is on watch. I stay in the companionway (remember as either an asshole or the admiral) because I don't want to have to put my life jacket on yet. So darned hot!
0800 hour--write my email to Kathy and to you all from the notes that I wrote on my night watch.
0900 hour--get breakfast ready, often just pulling out granola, yogurt, dried fruit, and a can of fruit which we simply pass around with a spoon. After breakfast, I rinse the dishes with salt water--which I do after every meal--and then a little dishes fairy comes and washes them and puts them away. Really cool how that happens! I also filter our algae-bloomed drinking water for our water bottles for the morning.
1000 hour--start my day watch
1230-1300 hour--pull out leftovers for lunch or make a quick tuna salad--trying to use up our interminable supply of tuna. Captain and Lal have their daily cold Hinano beer (brewed in Tahiti). I am rarely in the mood for beer at noon.
1500 hour-- relived from watch by Brad. Write our current coordinates in the log book (see the pattern?) Head down below to take a one hour nap under the fan. Dreaming about what to cook for dinner.
1600-1700 hours--prepare dinner, often listening to music from my iTouch. Sinfully throwing garbage out the porthole.
1700 hour--Cocktail time. Scotch, rum, or wine, toasting to appreciations, and watching the sun set.
1745 hour--Dinner served
1815-1845 hour--I take Brad's watch for a bit so he can send/receive our daily emails.
1915-1930 hours--Prepare for bed.. Floss teeth. May read a bit. Make my bed for the second time that day on the leeward (pronounce loo-ward) settee.
2000-2250 hours--First half of night sleep--not always very restful. Wear earplugs because of all the boat noise.
2250 hour--Woken up by my trust iTouch for night watch. Use the head. Un-make my settee bed to make it available for Lal
2300 hour--relive Lal of watch and settle into my night watch
Note: at some points during the day--engine turned on to charge our batteries. Water maker is turned out and we also recharge all our electronic toys with the inverter (just like the car inverter that plugs into the cigarette lighter.)
And then it repeats again!
Pax Vobiscum
09 degrees 43' N, 150 degrees 53' W
Today's blog entry is a day in the life at sea as seen by Chip.
0000 hour--one hour into my night watch. Writing in my journal, spacing out looking at the bio luminescence and the stars. Thinking, dang I am sleepy and I have 2 more hours.
0200 hour--relieved from watch by Brad. Write current coordinates in log book--which I take off the GPS. Move my pillow and sheets to the aft cabin and make my bed for the first time in a 24 hour period. I settle into the second half of my night's sleep.
0630-0730 hour--wake up. Strip my aft bunk and stow my pillow and sheet. Come up the companionway and chat with Lal who is on watch. I stay in the companionway (remember as either an asshole or the admiral) because I don't want to have to put my life jacket on yet. So darned hot!
0800 hour--write my email to Kathy and to you all from the notes that I wrote on my night watch.
0900 hour--get breakfast ready, often just pulling out granola, yogurt, dried fruit, and a can of fruit which we simply pass around with a spoon. After breakfast, I rinse the dishes with salt water--which I do after every meal--and then a little dishes fairy comes and washes them and puts them away. Really cool how that happens! I also filter our algae-bloomed drinking water for our water bottles for the morning.
1000 hour--start my day watch
1230-1300 hour--pull out leftovers for lunch or make a quick tuna salad--trying to use up our interminable supply of tuna. Captain and Lal have their daily cold Hinano beer (brewed in Tahiti). I am rarely in the mood for beer at noon.
1500 hour-- relived from watch by Brad. Write our current coordinates in the log book (see the pattern?) Head down below to take a one hour nap under the fan. Dreaming about what to cook for dinner.
1600-1700 hours--prepare dinner, often listening to music from my iTouch. Sinfully throwing garbage out the porthole.
1700 hour--Cocktail time. Scotch, rum, or wine, toasting to appreciations, and watching the sun set.
1745 hour--Dinner served
1815-1845 hour--I take Brad's watch for a bit so he can send/receive our daily emails.
1915-1930 hours--Prepare for bed.. Floss teeth. May read a bit. Make my bed for the second time that day on the leeward (pronounce loo-ward) settee.
2000-2250 hours--First half of night sleep--not always very restful. Wear earplugs because of all the boat noise.
2250 hour--Woken up by my trust iTouch for night watch. Use the head. Un-make my settee bed to make it available for Lal
2300 hour--relive Lal of watch and settle into my night watch
Note: at some points during the day--engine turned on to charge our batteries. Water maker is turned out and we also recharge all our electronic toys with the inverter (just like the car inverter that plugs into the cigarette lighter.)
And then it repeats again!
Pax Vobiscum
Saturday, April 25, 2009
Pax at Sea
07 degrees 38' N, 149 degrees 43' W
Last night was our second big night of storms. It blew hard for 30 minutes on Chip's watch and then it did it twice on my watch and I was treated to driving rain as well. It can be remarkably cold in the eighties if you are soaked and the wind is howling. Just to top things off a deck drain sprung a leak right over my bunk precluding much of my off watch sleep. All in all a frustrating night.
Today was much better. In the morning we hove to for an hour, giving us an opportunity to fix the leaky drain, clean the slippery cabin sole and in general to dry out and rest. We all feel better this evening and are now moving well under a 12 knot wind. We have had enchiladas con pollo for dinner along with another of our boxes of Tahitian wine. The sea is teeming with life here, we have seen more flying fish than ever before and we had two more on deck this morning.
We are now less than 1000 miles from Hawaii and are starting to think about our arrival.
Pax Vobiscum
Friday, April 24, 2009
06 degrees 2' N, 148 degrees 51' W
Last night we had two dolphin visitations, both brilliant due to the large amounts of phosphorescence in the water. The dolphins swam rapidly at us just under the surface encased in tubes of brilliant color. The second visitation occurred at around 4:30 AM and Lal was awakened below by the echo ranging squeaks of the dolphins as they slide just under our keel. It was as if they were talking to her in her sleep, waking her so she could come up and view the show.
Earlier the evening was challenging as the wind piped up to near 30 knots requiring two incidents of all hands on deck to reduce sail. The wind then calmed down to almost nothing amidst ominous clouds that never amounted to anything but light rain. Now the wind is back up near 20 knots and we are moving nicely under much reduced sail. We are wondering whether the lull earlier today was our very brief version of an ITCZ crossing. We hope so, but only time will tell.
Pax Vobiscum
Last night we had two dolphin visitations, both brilliant due to the large amounts of phosphorescence in the water. The dolphins swam rapidly at us just under the surface encased in tubes of brilliant color. The second visitation occurred at around 4:30 AM and Lal was awakened below by the echo ranging squeaks of the dolphins as they slide just under our keel. It was as if they were talking to her in her sleep, waking her so she could come up and view the show.
Earlier the evening was challenging as the wind piped up to near 30 knots requiring two incidents of all hands on deck to reduce sail. The wind then calmed down to almost nothing amidst ominous clouds that never amounted to anything but light rain. Now the wind is back up near 20 knots and we are moving nicely under much reduced sail. We are wondering whether the lull earlier today was our very brief version of an ITCZ crossing. We hope so, but only time will tell.
Pax Vobiscum
Thursday, April 23, 2009
Pax at Sea
04 degrees 4' N, 147 degrees 50' W
Last night we sailed through a school of airborne flying fish. Chip put one back overboard but we had three bodies on deck in the morning. Lal, the dissector, was in heaven, the Captain was down below avoiding the blood and gore. Thankfully as this is written the body parts are all overboard.
We will be making our big turn in an hour or two. Until now we have been sailing east of our course. We are finally ready to turn towards Hawaii, now less than 1200 miles away. We are waiting to see how bad the ITCZ will be. The Inter Tropical Convergence Zone is an area of global up-welling where we expect light winds and thunderstorms. We should encounter the ITCZ sometime before crossing 10 degrees north latitude.
As for now the water remains rich - flying fish, sea birds, and today our second dolphin visitation. These dolphins looked like a group of loners, perhaps juvenile males looking for adventure and love. They stayed with us for about 15 minutes and then moved on.
The food continues to be great. Fresh baked artesian bread, clam linguini and Thai red curry with rice. We are a well fed crew at the halfway point of our journey. If he wind holds we will be drinking pog and rum in Honolulu by May 3 or 4.
Pax Vobiscum
04 degrees 4' N, 147 degrees 50' W
Last night we sailed through a school of airborne flying fish. Chip put one back overboard but we had three bodies on deck in the morning. Lal, the dissector, was in heaven, the Captain was down below avoiding the blood and gore. Thankfully as this is written the body parts are all overboard.
We will be making our big turn in an hour or two. Until now we have been sailing east of our course. We are finally ready to turn towards Hawaii, now less than 1200 miles away. We are waiting to see how bad the ITCZ will be. The Inter Tropical Convergence Zone is an area of global up-welling where we expect light winds and thunderstorms. We should encounter the ITCZ sometime before crossing 10 degrees north latitude.
As for now the water remains rich - flying fish, sea birds, and today our second dolphin visitation. These dolphins looked like a group of loners, perhaps juvenile males looking for adventure and love. They stayed with us for about 15 minutes and then moved on.
The food continues to be great. Fresh baked artesian bread, clam linguini and Thai red curry with rice. We are a well fed crew at the halfway point of our journey. If he wind holds we will be drinking pog and rum in Honolulu by May 3 or 4.
Pax Vobiscum
Wednesday, April 22, 2009
Pax at Sea
01 degrees 54' N, 147 degrees 37' W
We entered the northern hemisphere at 12:30 AM. We like the weather up here. It has been cooler and there is a good wind that lets us reach rather than beat, a pleasant change.
Each day we see ocean and sky and little else; it is a big world. We are in contact by e-mail radio but we are mostly on our own, cut off from civilization. This reality has come home to us. Five or so days ago Lal's mom contacted pneumonia and yesterday she died. Lal got word from her siblings, but there was no way for her to rush to her mom's side, we are still at least 12 days from land. This adventure does have a price.
Pax vobiscum Eulalie Helen Woleben Sullivan.
01 degrees 54' N, 147 degrees 37' W
We entered the northern hemisphere at 12:30 AM. We like the weather up here. It has been cooler and there is a good wind that lets us reach rather than beat, a pleasant change.
Each day we see ocean and sky and little else; it is a big world. We are in contact by e-mail radio but we are mostly on our own, cut off from civilization. This reality has come home to us. Five or so days ago Lal's mom contacted pneumonia and yesterday she died. Lal got word from her siblings, but there was no way for her to rush to her mom's side, we are still at least 12 days from land. This adventure does have a price.
Pax vobiscum Eulalie Helen Woleben Sullivan.
Tuesday, April 21, 2009
Pax at sea
0 degrees 32' S, 148 degrees 11' W
Another great sailing day. As I write we are heeled over 20 degrees as we have been all day long. We are making 6.5 knots close hauled in about 20 knots apparent wind. There is a regular pitching moment over the waves but every once in a while a bigger wave slides under Pax and she launches off it, her 28,000 pounds then falls 6 feet hard into the next trough. The noise and the splash are both impressive. We are glad those Canadians built her strong.
Last night the moon rose at 3 AM, it was what in our family we call a Paul Geisler moon-just a sliver, the end of the cycle, reminiscent of the remains of clipping your big toenail. This moon is now down between Jupiter, which rose around 1 PM, and Venus, which was first visible around 4 AM, a big bright orb with a diameter obvious to the naked eye.
Tonight we will cross the equator, probably around 1 AM. We celebrated with scotch tonight and tomorrow morning we shellbacks will induct pollywog Chip into the club. We topped of our scotch with another fine dinner from Chip and with Oreo cookies left behind by Sal, now campaigning in Seattle. We miss her.
There is more and more life in this water as we move north. Phosphorescence bright in the night and now whole schools of flying fish by day.
Pax Vobiscum
Monday, August 20, 2009
Pax at sea
2 degrees 41' S, 148 degrees 5' W
We have been moving fast through the daylight hours over relatively flat seas, averaging over 6 knots. This has been the best sail of the trip so far. Last night the wind died completely at 7:30 and we motored until the wind returned at 1:30 AM.
We have had two close visits with a large white as yet unidentified bird. Lal is working hard on telling us what it is and its identification may turn on eye color. I think it has hazel eyes, but others think I am hallucinating. At about three AM another unidentified bird made an approach to land in the cockpit only to veer off at the last second on discovering me sitting there contemplating the expansion of the universe. We were both surprised, the bird cawed, I jumped.
Chip won the day's safety award by splipping his life jacket on while holding a full wine glass in a pitching sea. Well, truth is, he did not succeed but he gets the award anyway and an A for effort. He has conquered mal de mer.
We are all excited that the equator is now just little more than a day away and we are now more than a third of the way to Hawaii. Even the now dead algae in our water tanks are beginning to taste good.
Pax Vobiscum
2 degrees 41' S, 148 degrees 5' W
We have been moving fast through the daylight hours over relatively flat seas, averaging over 6 knots. This has been the best sail of the trip so far. Last night the wind died completely at 7:30 and we motored until the wind returned at 1:30 AM.
We have had two close visits with a large white as yet unidentified bird. Lal is working hard on telling us what it is and its identification may turn on eye color. I think it has hazel eyes, but others think I am hallucinating. At about three AM another unidentified bird made an approach to land in the cockpit only to veer off at the last second on discovering me sitting there contemplating the expansion of the universe. We were both surprised, the bird cawed, I jumped.
Chip won the day's safety award by splipping his life jacket on while holding a full wine glass in a pitching sea. Well, truth is, he did not succeed but he gets the award anyway and an A for effort. He has conquered mal de mer.
We are all excited that the equator is now just little more than a day away and we are now more than a third of the way to Hawaii. Even the now dead algae in our water tanks are beginning to taste good.
Pax Vobiscum
Sunday, August 19, 2009
4 degrees 43' S, 148 degrees 34' W
After a blustery night the wind died. We have been proceeding under sail in very light winds during the day today. First from the north (ugh) then from the east. We were on port tack fr a while in what is supposed to be a starboard-tack-all-the-way trip. So, our progress today has been minimal. As this is written the light winds persist - light from the east, barely enough for steerage.
The big event today was visitation from a large pod of dolphins. Lal identified them as Pantrpoical spotted dolphins. About thirty of them stayed with us for an hour this afternoon, plying back and forth under the bow, time and time again. They were as glad to see us as we were to see them. They do not get many visitors here far from the routes of commerce.
Last night we saw an airplane headed south at 2:40 AM, the first of our journey, and a little later a bird took a great exception to our presence, a loud caw-cawing for 10 minutes or so. It was so dark that the bird was never visible.
We had a hand made pea soup and fresh baked corn muffins for dinner, another great performance by Chip, and we all shared a little single malt scotch to celebrate Patriot's Day and watch the sunset.
Pax Vobiscum
After a blustery night the wind died. We have been proceeding under sail in very light winds during the day today. First from the north (ugh) then from the east. We were on port tack fr a while in what is supposed to be a starboard-tack-all-the-way trip. So, our progress today has been minimal. As this is written the light winds persist - light from the east, barely enough for steerage.
The big event today was visitation from a large pod of dolphins. Lal identified them as Pantrpoical spotted dolphins. About thirty of them stayed with us for an hour this afternoon, plying back and forth under the bow, time and time again. They were as glad to see us as we were to see them. They do not get many visitors here far from the routes of commerce.
Last night we saw an airplane headed south at 2:40 AM, the first of our journey, and a little later a bird took a great exception to our presence, a loud caw-cawing for 10 minutes or so. It was so dark that the bird was never visible.
We had a hand made pea soup and fresh baked corn muffins for dinner, another great performance by Chip, and we all shared a little single malt scotch to celebrate Patriot's Day and watch the sunset.
Pax Vobiscum
Saturday, April 18, 2009
Pax at Sea
6 degrees 14'S, 148 degrees 50'W
As I write this we are hauling ass, which in Pax means we are going 6.5 knots. We are heeled over hard, the spray is flying and we are leaping over wave after wave. Plenty of excitement, and all at the speed of a octogenarian's jog. The sun has just gone down and put an end to a squally day. Little storms to the left then to the right and then right over us. Wind down, then up, then rain everywhere, then repeat the whole cycle. Now though, it is mostly cleared and we are enjoying our sprint.
More flying fish today and another frigate bird. Chip made us fish cakes with dill sauce for dinner, a gourmet treat with canned tuna, bisquick and our still good eggs. And tonight it was Polynesia's finest Pierre Marcel vin rouge, right out of the box. How can such a lousy wine taste so good?
Chip is subbing for me while I write, and I can hear him in the cockpit accompanying Cat Stevens then, Yusef Isreal now, in a spirited rendition of Peace Train.
Rumor is that the algae is marshaling for a recapture of our water tanks at first light, but Clorox in hand we are ready for the little devils.
Pax Vobiscum
6 degrees 14'S, 148 degrees 50'W
As I write this we are hauling ass, which in Pax means we are going 6.5 knots. We are heeled over hard, the spray is flying and we are leaping over wave after wave. Plenty of excitement, and all at the speed of a octogenarian's jog. The sun has just gone down and put an end to a squally day. Little storms to the left then to the right and then right over us. Wind down, then up, then rain everywhere, then repeat the whole cycle. Now though, it is mostly cleared and we are enjoying our sprint.
More flying fish today and another frigate bird. Chip made us fish cakes with dill sauce for dinner, a gourmet treat with canned tuna, bisquick and our still good eggs. And tonight it was Polynesia's finest Pierre Marcel vin rouge, right out of the box. How can such a lousy wine taste so good?
Chip is subbing for me while I write, and I can hear him in the cockpit accompanying Cat Stevens then, Yusef Isreal now, in a spirited rendition of Peace Train.
Rumor is that the algae is marshaling for a recapture of our water tanks at first light, but Clorox in hand we are ready for the little devils.
Pax Vobiscum
Friday, April 17, 2009
Pax at Sea
8 degrees 3' S, 149 degrees 20' W
We had a good day. The wind came around to the ESE so we managed to get to the east even though we are now in the west setting equatorial current. We saw more birds today including a close visit by a large frigate bird. We also had several flying fish sightings.
The boat continues to perform well and the water continues to be drinkable. More importantly, the crew is feeling universally good about eating and we all had some fine Polynesian box wine with dinner tonight, which was a lovely corned beef and cabbage prepared by our master chef, Chip.
And today was Lal's 27th Anniversary. She regaled us with tales or her and Eric's engagement, marriage and early adventures together. This is the second consecutive year we have pulled Lal away from Eric to help sail Pax. Eric, we thank you for indulging her and us in this adventure.
Pax Vobiscum
8 degrees 3' S, 149 degrees 20' W
We had a good day. The wind came around to the ESE so we managed to get to the east even though we are now in the west setting equatorial current. We saw more birds today including a close visit by a large frigate bird. We also had several flying fish sightings.
The boat continues to perform well and the water continues to be drinkable. More importantly, the crew is feeling universally good about eating and we all had some fine Polynesian box wine with dinner tonight, which was a lovely corned beef and cabbage prepared by our master chef, Chip.
And today was Lal's 27th Anniversary. She regaled us with tales or her and Eric's engagement, marriage and early adventures together. This is the second consecutive year we have pulled Lal away from Eric to help sail Pax. Eric, we thank you for indulging her and us in this adventure.
Pax Vobiscum
Thursday, April 16, 2009
Pax at Sea
9 degrees 50' S, 150 degrees 15' W
We made fine progress today in winds that veered favorably to the east. In the morning we jury rigged a filtration system that turns our brown tank water clear, making it much more appealing to drink. We also doused the second tank with clorine and are feeling that the water is healthy, even if it does not taste as good as the Northwest water we are used to. Lal continues to improve our tie downs. Everything on deck is quite secure and the galley is usable in the starboard tack heel that is our fate for these three weeks.
At 4:30 PM we sighted Caroline Island in the East. We also sighted our first vessel traffic, a small ship anchored outside the Caroline Island lagoon. It probably had sent a small boat into the lagoon, which is not otherwise navigable.
Shortly thereafter we were deluged with our first real tropical squall - 35 knot winds and about as much rain as falls in a Seattle November, but all of it in 10 minutes. The Captain was on watch and got thoroughly drenched. But, the whole crew was quite content, having just finished Chip's first hot meal of the voyage, a delightful chicken chili, which the Captain and First Mate washed down with their first rum of the trip. We are all feeling better.
Pax Vobiscum
9 degrees 50' S, 150 degrees 15' W
We made fine progress today in winds that veered favorably to the east. In the morning we jury rigged a filtration system that turns our brown tank water clear, making it much more appealing to drink. We also doused the second tank with clorine and are feeling that the water is healthy, even if it does not taste as good as the Northwest water we are used to. Lal continues to improve our tie downs. Everything on deck is quite secure and the galley is usable in the starboard tack heel that is our fate for these three weeks.
At 4:30 PM we sighted Caroline Island in the East. We also sighted our first vessel traffic, a small ship anchored outside the Caroline Island lagoon. It probably had sent a small boat into the lagoon, which is not otherwise navigable.
Shortly thereafter we were deluged with our first real tropical squall - 35 knot winds and about as much rain as falls in a Seattle November, but all of it in 10 minutes. The Captain was on watch and got thoroughly drenched. But, the whole crew was quite content, having just finished Chip's first hot meal of the voyage, a delightful chicken chili, which the Captain and First Mate washed down with their first rum of the trip. We are all feeling better.
Pax Vobiscum
Wednesday, April 15
Pax at sea
11 degrees 47' S, 150 degrees 51'W
We continue to slog our way to windward. That fellow who wrote "Gentlemen Never Go To Weather" knew what he was about.
There are some glimmers that this arduous trial is beginning to ease as the Captain enjoyed eating tonight for the first time in two days. Chip made a delicious cabbage salad with cucumbers, nuts, tomatoes and fruits - very, very good.
And we are doing great with our supplies: the butane will not run out, there has been no cooking since we left Raiatea, and the beer, wine, and rum supplies haven't been touched since the Captain bravely downed a Hinano on the first day out. Obviously this must change-what kind of sailors would we be if we forsook all rum?
The wind has turned more northerly which is preventing us from getting as far to the east as we want to, but we have over 2,000 more miles and we anticipate a favorable shift tomorrow. Tomorrow we will pass Caroline Island in the Line Islands. Until now, no boats, airplanes and precious little wildlife sighted on this trip, although Chip did see a big dorsal fin yesterday. Alas, we had no line in the water, and although Lal volunteered to jump in and swim after it with the gaff, calmer heads prevailed.
Pax Vobiscum
11 degrees 47' S, 150 degrees 51'W
We continue to slog our way to windward. That fellow who wrote "Gentlemen Never Go To Weather" knew what he was about.
There are some glimmers that this arduous trial is beginning to ease as the Captain enjoyed eating tonight for the first time in two days. Chip made a delicious cabbage salad with cucumbers, nuts, tomatoes and fruits - very, very good.
And we are doing great with our supplies: the butane will not run out, there has been no cooking since we left Raiatea, and the beer, wine, and rum supplies haven't been touched since the Captain bravely downed a Hinano on the first day out. Obviously this must change-what kind of sailors would we be if we forsook all rum?
The wind has turned more northerly which is preventing us from getting as far to the east as we want to, but we have over 2,000 more miles and we anticipate a favorable shift tomorrow. Tomorrow we will pass Caroline Island in the Line Islands. Until now, no boats, airplanes and precious little wildlife sighted on this trip, although Chip did see a big dorsal fin yesterday. Alas, we had no line in the water, and although Lal volunteered to jump in and swim after it with the gaff, calmer heads prevailed.
Pax Vobiscum
Tuesday, April 14
13 degrees 37' S, 150 degrees 57 ' w
We continue to make good progress but this has been a difficult day. Slogging to windward is rough. The angle of heel and temperature in the cabin precludes any cooking and makes all tasks arduous. We are all queasy, although no one has yet been sick. And to top things off we have what we think are algae blooms in our water tanks. We have doused one with clorine and are hoping for the best.
The stars are again, well, the stars of the voyage. Venus, Jupiter and the moon were stretched out in a straight line for all to see, all on the 4:30 AM watch that is.
Pax Vobiscum
We continue to make good progress but this has been a difficult day. Slogging to windward is rough. The angle of heel and temperature in the cabin precludes any cooking and makes all tasks arduous. We are all queasy, although no one has yet been sick. And to top things off we have what we think are algae blooms in our water tanks. We have doused one with clorine and are hoping for the best.
The stars are again, well, the stars of the voyage. Venus, Jupiter and the moon were stretched out in a straight line for all to see, all on the 4:30 AM watch that is.
Pax Vobiscum
"Dost thou love life? Then do not squander time, for that's the stuff life is made of."
Benjamin Franklin
Benjamin Franklin
"It is never too late to be what you might have been."
George Eliot
George Eliot
Wednesday, June 18, 2008
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Pax Position Reports
We have been radioing our position and weather daily to an organization in New Zealand and we understand from our friend Chris Wronsky in snowy Exeter N.H. that our progress can be monitored at its website. The address is: http://www.pangolin.co.nz/yotreps/index.php We are listed under either Pax Vobiscum or our Ham call sign ke7oqq.
Pax Vobiscum
Pax Vobiscum
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